Windy roads curve around rocky cliffs that hang out into the sea through a seemingly endless stretch of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The drive from Naples through the coast to arrive at Positano is simply breathtaking in so many different way. With every bend and hairpin turn, I held my breath and let out a sigh of relief when I got a glimpse of the beautiful simmering ocean over the colorful little buildings.
I took so many photos as we drove into Positano, while the sun was setting into the ocean. None of them came close to how magical it was to be there and see it with the naked eye. Positano is truly a jewel in the setting of Italy’s gorgeous Almafi Coast.
My love affair with Positano sparked 3 years ago while I was watching a Netflix show called “Senses”. One of the couples in the show was there on their honeymoon and I was awestruck by its beauty. This may come as a surprise to you, but I had not really heard about Positano before this. Maybe its because people always talked about the Almafi coast. Anyways, since I knew we were planning on going to Europe for our 1st wedding anniversary, I started to look into Positano. It didn’t take much research for us to decide to choose to go there.
Best Time To Visit:
In general, while visiting popular tourist destinations like Italy, it is expected to be crowded during peak summer time. If you truly want to enjoy the beauty and grandeur of Positano without the shuffling crowds, you should go between May – June or September – October, when the sun is still shinning bright but the air is slightly cool.
How To Get There
I’m going to be totally honest with you here – as beautiful as it is, Positano is kind of a pain to get to.
If you are flying, your only option is to fly into Naples. From there, my recommendation is to take a private car either with the hotel you are staying at or private transfer. Our Airbnb host arranged our private car for EUR 130 one way. Unfortunately, there is no uber in this area.
If you are not flying into Naples, then your other option is by train. There is no direct train to Positano but you can take the train to Salerno and then a ferry transfer to Positano. One thing to remember is that during the non peak season (before April and after October) the ferry service may no longer be available.
Where To Stay
I kid you not when I say, you need to book your hotels or Airbnb atleast 6-9 months out. The best hotels overlooking the water and the cliffs sell out very quickly. We were so lucky to find a beautiful Airbnb which was a 15 minute walk from the Positano town center. The best thing about it was that the owner of the Airbnb also owned the “Eden Roc Hotel”. So our check in was at the hotel and we had hotel style service at the Airbnb.
Other hotels you can stay at:
- Villa Treville – popular with top bloggers, this beautiful and stylishly decorated hotel is convenitently located and not too high up into the hills. It is not right in the town center but boasts a beautiful view of the classic Positano.
- Le Sirenuse – this one is probably the best of the best and most popular. If you want to splurge, this is the hotel you want to stay at.
- Airbnb – Ofcourse, there are tons of Airbnb options to choose from. But this was the one we stayed at and it was simply perfect. We were even welcomed with some home made cake and a bottle of red wine.
Where To Eat + Drink
If there is one thing you must do in Italy, it is to eat. Positano has so many amazing places to eat at. We only had three days there so it was hard to try all the restaurants I did my research on and wanted to try.
- Ristonate Adamo ed Eva – We started our first night eating at this restaurant because it was late, and it was located in the Eden Roc Hotel. So the staff managed to get us last minute reservations. I had not read about it on blogs before, but I don’t know why. It was absolutely delicious, the staff was friendly and we enjoyed the beautiful view of Positano at night. My rating – 4.5/5!
- Casa Mele – Now this one too I had not read about in other blogs but while we were at dinner the first night, we met someone from New York who was a regular in Positano. He said his absolute favorite was Casa Mele. It was a short walk to it from our apartment so we decided to eat here on the 2nd night. We tried the chefs tasting menu so we did not know what we were getting until it was in front of us. This was truly an amazing experience. The chef came out multiple times to meet us and explained every creation that he placed in front of us to feast on. At the end of the night, he sent us out two glasses of champagne and toasted to “True love.” My rating 5/5!
- Chez Black – This place is probably one of the most popular with celebrities. I know because you can see from all the photos of celebrities with the owner all around the restaurant. This restaurants is located right in the center of Positano overlooking the beautiful ocean. This is a great place for lunch or an early dinner in my opinion. We got some pizza and caprese salad and it was on point! The only downside of this one is that is often crowded so service is a tad bit slow. My rating 4.7/5
- Rada – We got tourist trapped into eating at this restaurant. I had seen pictures of how this restaurant was located inside of a cave overlooking the ocean. I made reservations because I wanted to experience it but it was a little disappointing. The food was mediocre and the service was eh. It was also very pricey and not worth it but I guess you pay for the experience. My Rating 3.8/5
- La Tagliata – I had to just add this on in there because I did not get to go but literally everyone in Positano recommended that we did. I was not sure if this was going to be another tourist trap after our disappointing dinner at Rada so we decided to skip it. But looking back at reviews, people only rave about it. So I guess, if you go – let me know how it was!
- Frano’s Bar – This bar is part of the Hotel Sirenuse and is hands down the best place to watch the sunset and get drinks in Positano. The crowd is lively and fun and the staff and service is great. This is a must do if you are in Positano.
What To Do In Positano
There are so many fun things to do around Positano. Shopping, relaxing, eating, dancing, they have it all.
Positano has a lot of hills and stairs, so be prepared to walk and climb a lot. This is why it is very important that you bring cute but comfortable walking shoes or sandals. But if you did not bring any, there are tons of little boutique shops that you can buy them from. The Almafi coast is known for their custom handmade sandals. From leather shops to linen shops, there is so much you can buy or just window shop.
Relax At The Beach
The sand in Positano is not really sand, its more like pebble rocks. I’m not complaining because it still feels great on your feet. You can rent a chair at the main beach for EUR 25 if you want front row seating right by the water or EUR 10 – 15 for seats in the back. The water is nice and warm and the sun is not too hot. June was the perfect time to just relax and listen to the sounds of happy tourists and the waves crashing against the shore.
While the main beach in the center of Positano is fun, it is also popular and crowded. My favorite was a little small beach that was located right below our Airbnb. The beach is called Spiaggia Del Fornillo. This beach also has many restaurants and bars like Pupetto where you can grab a drink and watch the sunset.
Rent A Scooter
Now this is something that we did not do because we did not have enough time, but its definitely something I would love to do when we go back there some day. Its easy to drive around town because of the narrow roads and you can even drive along the coast and find the famous Fiordo Di Furore. This is located in a small town just past Positano and is definitely a must do and top attraction of Positano.
Take A Boat Trip To Capri
While there is enough to do in Positano for 3 days to keep you busy, if you are staying for longer or are going back for a 2nd time, you should take a boat trip to Capri. What better way to see the Almafi coast that from the water? There are many tours operating from Positano that will take you to Capri for the day and back. Most tour companies will also stop at the well known Emerald Grotto. If you are going in May or October when it is cooler, the Grotto is a fun thing to do because the water is somehow warmer around there.
Dance The Night Away
If you like dancing or want to just check out the night life in Positano, Music on the Rocks is the place to go. It is located inside of a cave (yes, its part of Rada Restaurant) but on a higher floor than Rada. If you do go, make sure not to show up before 1 am because that is what we did and there was NO ONE there. The crowd starts coming in around 1:30 AM and its open till 4 AM. Definitely not something you want to do on your last day and miss your flight out.
Take A Cooking Class
If you are going to be in Italy, you might as well learn to cook some Italian food so you can take a piece of Italy back home with you. There are many places around Positano. Once that has great reviews and I’ve gotten personal recommendations for, is the cooking classes at Restaurant Buca Di Bacco. With the bottomless mimosas and 4 course meals + dessert, you will definitely get your money’s worth here!
Eat Some Gelato + Drink Some Espresso
What’s better than having some creamy, cold Gelato to cool you down on a hot summer day? There are many little Gelato and espresso shops around Positano but our personal favorite was stopping at Li Galli Bar in the morning for espresso on the way to the beach or some Gelato heading back to our apartment. Gelato with a view? This is my heaven!
Visiting Positano was a dream come true for me. I did not want to leave but knowing that my next stop was going to be Florence, it was easier to say Arrivederci Positano!